The entrance to my faculty at Lviv University

"You're totally wrong". At the university I meet Dana and Katerina, two of the teachers who are dividing my four hours a day tuition between them. Both are thoroughly prepared. Dana has a folder full of papers about Ukrainian politics, Katerina is majoring on the environment – I see her folder includes the invaluable phrases "I completely agree", "I share your opinion", and "You're totally wrong". Our classroom is a former monk's cell, where sounds of accordeon-players and violinists from the nearby school for performing arts waft under the door.

Later I visit the British Council resource centre in the university, whose staff are inspiringly enthusiastic. At lunch, someone describes our meal of "soup with ears" – in fact, little dumplings – as a Galician dish. I am reminded that in the fine, treachery-based board game "Diplomacy", set in 1901, control of Galicia is a key to domination of central Europe.